December 2, 2014, Karl Lagerfeld presented the Metiers d’Art collection in The Sound of Music territory, at the palace of Schloss Leopoldskron, now an elegant hotel. Located on a lake just south of Salzburg, the 18th-century Rococo palace is famous for being one of the country’s finest. It was conquered by the Nazi party as a national treasure during World War II.
Chanel’s Métiers d’Art collection began in 2002 to showcase the work of its special ateliers, including milliner Michel, cashmere producer Barrie, jeweler Desrues, feather-maker Lemarié and shoemaker Massaro. The show takes place to present the pre-collections, often in exotic locations linked to the fashion house’s past. For example previous shows have taken place in Edinburgh, Dallas, Bombay, and Dubai.
Karl Lagerfeld chooses the location of each show based on numerous factors. Some factors are places that have strong ties to founder Gabrielle Chanel’s life and inspirations. Also, recently it was revealed that the label’s famous little black jacket, designed by Chanel in the Fifties, was inspired by a jacket worn by a lift attendant in a hotel near Salzburg.
In Reincarnation, the film that was screened during the show, Pharrell Williams and Cara Delevingne brought Emperor Franz Joseph I and Empress Elisabeth of Austria back to life. “Sissi” she was called, “CC” Pharrell sang. The lace and ribbons and elegant sleeve details of Winterhalter’s portraits of Sissi became part of the Chanel vocabulary in this collection, but they were balanced by a black leather biker worn with jeans, or tiny suede shorts paired with laced-up suede thigh-highs. Sissi and CC, the past and now, the kind of rearranging act that has become a principal in Lagerfeld’s massive collections for Chanel. (This one had 80-plus looks.) Inspired by Sissi, the 19th-century Empress of Austria (played by Cara Delevingne in Karl Lagerfeld’s short film Reincarnation), looks for the Chanel Métiers d’Art Paris-Salzburg collection were decorated with delicate accessories and 21st century look. To watch the film click here.
Lagerfeld spun his own Mitteleuropa fantasy, as his models with their golden eyelids moved through rococo salons lit by candles. The caplets, frogged jackets, and side-striped trousers echoed a Viennese military academy. It was one of those jackets, altered into the uniform of a hotel page in Salzburg’s Mittersill Hotel that inspired Chanel’s signature little black jacket. There were plenty of them in the show, too.
Hair was done by Sam McKnight, who blew dry hair off the face with a touch of L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni Art Mousse, with a section of hair pulled back and clipped with a jewel-encrusted Chanel clip, black satin bow, or both. Some models even wore earmuffs with the famous Chanel flower, which were actually headphones that McKnight called “braidphones”.
Unlike the mane details, makeup was kept fresh and bold with a bit of Rouge Coco in ‘Julia’ and ‘Cécile‘ on lips, while eyes were emphasized with smokey eyes, using the Les 4 Ombres palette in ‘Intuition‘ with a sparkling golden edge on the lash line.
To know more about Chanel Metier d’Art show in Salzburg, click here.
See also our previous article: Chanel vs. Victoria’s Secret
Written By: Nadine Fakih