Geometrical hypnotism – the Issey Miyake show was one that I was awaiting to view with bubbling anticipation, what unfurled on the day of, was hardly anything I’d expected. The invitation itself was something out of the clutter: a smartly crafted piece of paper that unfolded into a spectrum of colours. Outside of Espace Ephemere there was a little mini-show, of bloggers, fashionistas and young students all dressed to the nines (some more eccentrically) basking in the sun and trotting about it their fineries.
Inside, the ramp took the form of a luminous plexiglass floor combined with black surroundings. A one man- band injected the atmosphere with some soulful music as a singer crooned along. And then it began. Those designs jumped of the runway in their sheer vibrancy. It was like watching art in motion.
Set in jewel tones of aubergine and emerald ruby, the show began on a sober note replete with skirt suits, shifts and coat dresses. Hair was slick and adorned with black baseball caps and specks of tinted make up appeared near the eyelashes, reminiscent of the colour-blocked invitation.
The garments held easy drapes and were tailored in honey-comb textured fabrics. The collection progressed to voluminous ponchos, diaphanous skirts and capacious shawls knotted around the shoulders. There were then wicker-bascket textured pea-coats, fluid pants and felt-trimmed necklines. The collection took an athletic turn with chevron print polo dresses, punchy hair-bands and colour-blocked socks.
Yoshiyuki Miyamae has truly mastered the art of creating a three-dimensional aura with his Kaleidoscopic prints that appeared in morphed suits, turtle-neck dresses and jackets. The highlight and the peak of the spectacle was towards the end when the models appeared in obi belt-cinched skirts that magically unfolded into full skirts. As they twirled to the rhythm, they resembled spinning dervishes. An artful finale to a power-packed show.
Written by Tanya Mehta