This AW16 Copenhagen Fashion Week took place from Wednesday the 3rd of February 2016 to Saturday the 6th of February 2016. It was four days filled with a lot of very interesting collections. One common inspiration source was clearly taken from the 90’s era especially focused on the more gothic and grunge style for the women’s and the men’s collections. Let’s have a closer look at five inspiring collections.
For this AW16 collection the creative director of Ganni, Ditte Refstrup, presented a collection of British references. The almost iconic nightclub Penthouse had been transformed to a grungy salon, bathed in red limelight and Briti1sh pop banging out of the speakers. This was a presentation of the new Ganni girl – a more edgy version than we normally see from this brand. The collection showed looks with for example oversized blazers layered on a dress on top of a school uniform sweater. An army-green bomber jacket paired effortlessly with loose silk tracksuit pants, and the baby pink skirts with a chunky clipper belt were the highlights of this show.
2. Mark Kenly Domino Tan
Mark Kenly Domino Tan modernises the term of ‘evening wear’, a category that is left largely ignored by young designers these days. This AW16 collection was presented in a beautiful venue that looked like a huge ballroom, with champagne and even a live cellist – it was Danish richness at its finest. Mark Tan focuses on the details by the materials, forming the aesthetic basis of every collection because each garment is carefully produced in his atelier with highly skilled tailors. The new collection repeats this with a symphony of highly constructed, almost gothic gowns and furs in Swakara skins, sourced from Namibia in collaboration with Kopenhagen Fur and imprinted with rich graphics. Furthermore this designer had drawn on his Chinese heritage with mandarin colours.
3. Lala Berlin
For this AW16 collection designer Leya Piedayesh showed a darker side of the German label Lala Berlin. It was the Danish model Regitze Christensen who opened the show, all dressed in black: black suit, plush coat and a beanie with a badge of mythical Persian creature. Faces of antique statues of various mythical creatures and Middle Eastern animals were represented throughout the collection – in print, embellished on coats as well as on knits, and of course on these badges. However, the overall vibe of the designs was to be found in the 90’s grunge culture. With inspiration from fishnet stockings, Doc Martins boots, belted coats with large patch pockets etc. The Persian references can also be associated with the designer’s own Iranian heritage.
4. Henrik Vibskov
Since his last collection the Danish designer Henrik Vibskov has been travelling a lot to Asia, where he reinterpreted the traditional nutcracker figure in a spectacular orchestra of 200 blabbering clapping wooden heads. This unnerving soundscape instantly threw the audience into the total immersive universe Henrik Vibskov is really well known for. His usual prints had been replaced by sharp graphic lines and monochrome outfits, which focused on the sculptured details in every garment. This collection presented kimono coats in wool material for men and women, oversized quilted bomber jackets and a one-piece in monochrome black.
5. Han Kjøbenhavn
Copenhagen’s most individualistic menswear brand, Han Kjøbenhavn invited the audience to a hip-hop showcase in an exceptionally chilly Grey Hall in Christiania. Models appeared one after the other, emerging from the gigantic papier-mâché teddy bear installation that served as the show’s pseudo-religious totem, with an air ventilation system attached to its belly, which stretched to the far end of the runway. Drawing on their own suburban childhood, the venue was romantically articulated by the designers through logos of plumbers and auto-mechanics, printed on jumpers and track pants in deep purple and moss green. The models attached themselves to the teddy bear installation, after walking. Again the 90’s inspirations were really obvious in this collection, translated into opulent tailored outfits that were equally accessible and avant-garde.
Stay tuned for New York Fashion Week coming up.
Written by Emilie Elmquist