After 8 intensive days packed with fashion shows, New York closed yesterday the first chapter of the Fall/Winter 2016-2017 season, but before we head straight to London, let’s make a pause and take a look at the most captivating sights on the runway during the week.
Undone and glamorous are terms we do not usually associate, but on his latest collection the Nepali designer managed to blend them seamlessly. Prabal Gurung’s Fall-Winter show was all about light and fancy silhouettes — for which he is known — pushing the boundary of nonchalance by breaking the clean cut lines and creating the effect as if the garment or part of it was about to come off. Buttons lined along the seams of trousers, skirts and tops were intendedly left open to reveal some skin and to draw asymmetries that enhance the overall illusion of incompleteness. Likewise, adding to the effect of lightweight, feathers were a recurrent motif.
It all started as a gloomy stroll in a park, which soon turned into a playful oddity back in time, where dogs took a major role spanning from prints to — yes, why not? — a doggy bag! In this Victorian-inspired frenzy, Thom Browne showed his mastery at constructing impeccably tailored heavy-patterned looks emphasizing their multiple layers so as to show the complexity of their structure. Despite its grayness with some hints of red scattered here and there, the collection succeeded at being rich, vibrant and delightful.
Leafs have been a common motif on the runways this season, yet none of them as characteristic as Alexander Wang’s take on cannabis. His pick on stamping marijuana leaves all over his creations from lace to mohair coats to handbags, accentuates the rebel spirit of his collection. The use of sheer fabrics and skimpy bottoms makes a clear statement that its wearer couldn’t care less about public opinion. Though the one thing that remains uncertain is the purpose of those tags fixed across tops, beanies and even tattooed on models’ thighs. Anyway, add a pole dancer to the equation and suddenly everything makes sense.
ZERO + MARÍA CORNEJO
María Cornejo connected us with our roots with mother Earth through her sleek and modern shapes reminiscent of an arid natural haven. Rocks, soil and animals were faithfully captured in shoes, coats and dresses, which featured simple geometric cuts favoring freedom of movement. An earthy palette and warm textures added to the sophistication of her minimalist silhouettes. This Chilean designer’s proposal couldn’t be any cozier.
Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne, the duo behind this NY based label, brought us a remarkable parade of designs that seemed to be extracted from the streets of their home town and put together into smart hobo looks. We saw a wide range of garments layered into appealing silhouettes which communicate both comfort and flair for styling. A poncho over a letter-printed jumpsuit, a shirt with lose ends over a long uneven skirt, and a glossy mini-dress coordinating a tailored jacket and fringed pants; all of them beautifully finished off with a pair of unfastened black boots. This is an alternative perspective on fashion for all those who shy away from sheen and precision without compromising character.
That’s it for our recap on NY Fashion Week’s highlights. Stay tuned on our blog to get a scoop on the latest trends down from the runways. Next stop is London. Let’s see what this city has prepared to marvel us all.
By David Requena