The Fall-Winter 16/17 highlights comfortable and elegant cuts, without any frills, mixing the masculine with the feminine. There were hybrid combing Victorian details and fashion-forward cuts which still cultivate a kind of retro rockabilly. When the shoulders were not round they were totally inspired by the 80s especially at the Saint Laurent collection. Jeans, leather and vinyl came in all forms, accompanied by colourful floral prints and striped patterns. The feminine looks from the collections were created in wind blowing soft materials in lace with a lot of transparent details to show the Victorian inspiration as well. We will focus on the five main trends which you should follow next fall and winter.
The Layer Dress
Associated with a really feminine silhouette the layer dress was shown in many variations for the next season. Mostly in lace as in the Chanel and Isabel Marant collection or in pleated material as shown at Giambattista Valli. Valentino presented an even more feminine and innocent version with floral print in a soft nude color, which really was an important part of the color palette this season.
2. The Maxi Dress
With a color palette of strong pink, nude and black the maxi dress was omnipresent in the collections. These flattering long shapes came down the runway as a feminine touch, that in the case of Valentino and Elie Saab was combined with a biker jacket to add the masculine touch. The interpretations by Stella McCartney and Hermès were even more associated to an elegant goddess with high turtle-necks and long sleeves created in light fabrics.
3. Animal Print
Whether it was printed or appeared as fur fabric the animal associations were not easy to avoid. Isabel Marant presented leopard and zebra jackets and pants in a rock inspired collection where Emanuel Ungaro used it as a feminine aspect combined with floral patterns. In the case of Dior the animal associations were present in a very discrete way and created the fabric of the turtle-neck in many of the looks. Givenchy presented as always a bad-ass collection where the animal print combined with real fur collars emphasized this.
4. Corset Silhouette
Lead by Balmain this season featured a corset silhouette with wide belts in the waist. Interpreted with gladiator associations the corset silhouette was created on tight jumpsuits or flattering long shapes as presented at Loewe. Collars and over knee boots were added as well to emphasize the Roman inspiration.
5. The Quilted Jacket
Last but not least the quilted jacket was impossible to overlook. By adding athletic attitudes the jacket still reveals feminine and sexy silhouettes. Stella McCartney added two of the jackets above each other styled with a shiny golden pleated skirt. Furthermore this jacket was interpreted in colourful versions that added a masculine touch to the feminine shapes. Balenciaga and Acne Studios presented the jacket in a strong red and orange (colours that appeared in many collections), while Chanel proposed a more innocent and feminine version in nude coloured floral prints.
Written by Emilie Elmquist