Vetement returns with a bewildering yet structured collection filled with an apparent passion – which lacked in their previous menswear. The grungy, oversized 90’s pieces were layered perfectly showcasing unique aesthetic on the runway. Many critics are already foreseeing a new wave of trends for the upcoming year just from this show alone such as silked scarves, polos with oversized sleeves, army pants and even more crazy cut out denim.
The Gvasalia brothers and visionaries behind the five-year-old brand took a quick hiatus that sparked valid conversation in the monotonous world of fashion today. The decision to leave the catwalk stemmed from the fact that shows have become quite redundant and routinary, leaving the players in the industry bored.
But it was not only the decision to step back from the scheduled calendar that galvanized the fashion industry but the street-style label has also closed its Parisian doors and moved to greener pastures just four hours away from the fashion capital in Zurich, Switzerland. Ironically, it wasn’t just the industry that pulled their strings in the opposite corners, but it was the city in its entirety that chained and restricted the Vetements creative directors into fully embracing fashion at its finest.
They may not be wrong about the current state of the industry. What was once a highly cultivated creative culture has now fallen into the capitalistic state of mind – focusing mostly on the business and profitable side of things. This sad reality is one of the reasons why designers may be pulling out from the seasonal calendar which has evidently caused NYFW in the last few years. That and the over-populated designers in the lineup.
What does this mean for the artists and visionaries today? Will designers have a platform to freely create or will they be forced to dial down to fit into a business system? Take it from Vetement, who was slowly losing itself in this “creative” industry and chose to put their brand and identity at the forefront before anything else. We can conclude that the move allowed the brand to re-dial, restructure and maybe even keep their creative sanity in check. Credits to the Gvasalia brothers, it’s not always easy to admit or even go against the flow but anything must go to keep the boat afloat.