New York Fashion Week just ended on Friday with a lack of any enthusiasm. Despite a busy schedule filled with events, departures of famous designers such as Proenza Schouler, Altuzarra and lastly Alexander Wang from the NYFW, left us wondering if the transatlantic fashion week was still worth attending.
NYFW’s schedule was dense with 136 fashion shows packed over ten days. The length of this February’s edition, the longest on record, potentially discouraged designers who have to follow-up with London, Milan, and Paris with the same frenetic pace. Part of the oversaturated fashion week is due to the unification of men’s and women’s ready-to-wear into one combined fashion week.
At the same time, brands are deconstructing fashion weeks calendars. Recently, Alexander Wang chose to retire from the NYFW to showcase on his own in June and December while Tommy Hilfiger continues with his See-Now-Buy-Now, to create a spectacular fashion show which highlights a different capital each week.
The Big Apple is left to count on emerging designers and younger labels to make up the difference. Isn’t the whole point of New York to propose something that you cannot find anywhere else? Narciso Rodriguez presented their capsule collection with Barney’s on their 20th anniversary with a small committee reminiscent of a literary summit and Rosetta Getty revealed her sculptural pieces in her private loft in Tribeca.
Of course, we are missing the great talents that once took centre stage of the New York schedule and who contributed to its success, but intimate presentations seem to be the trend and could contribute to the transformation of NYFW. Their back-to-the-roots could stand for “Less is more”: creativity and subtlety over fame.