It is energizing to see a show drastically different from the ongoing hype with streetstyle seen in almost every show whether in Europe or in New York. Sarah Burton’s new menswear collection was very meaningful with references to artist Francis Bacon and photographer John Deakin with a very masculine collection focusing on cutting and tailoring, one of the hallmarks of British fashion.
Impeccably tailored collection in which you could notice zippered leather, waisted-cut-in-half trenchcoats, black and khaki with sharp pinstripe suits echoing the 19th century Victorian era – with dangling white cuffs and the iconic Chelsea boots. But, Burton’s collection aimed at extoling the two London artists’ work through red and white brushstrokes satin, wholly painted leathers, suits and graffiti jackets.
There was a lot of retrofuturism in Burton’s collection delivering the most stringent and powerful looks so far. This is truly a timeless collection for those who like tradition and classicism mingled with modernity. It is also an opposite stance to streetwear: “I feel McQueen is always about a narrative, it’s about a beauty, an elegance, a rawness: a dark and a light. It’s not about street. Okay, we do have trainer “sneaker”. But, it’s not in the show – but I really wanted to say it is about cut and silhouette and about clothes that are forever,” said the designer. And indeed it is timeless, in the pure European tradition which could satisfy those who want to see men’s fashion to move forward.